Szentendre is a small town in Pest county with the population about 30,000 people. It lays on the East side of the Danube about a 30-minute drive North from Budapest - making Szentendre a perfect daytrip destination from the capital. This little village is known for its colorful Baroque houses, historical atmosphere and museums like the Marzipan Museum, the Margit Kovács Ceramic Collection and the Ferenczy Museum. Just stroll around the cobblestone streets, among lovely cafés, galleries and souvenir shops.
The town is also home to the Hungarian Open Air Museum - the Skanzen or Szentendrei Szabadtéri Néprajzi Múzeum. The ethnographical exhibition displays traditional Hungarian and Carpathian folk architecture, traditions and way of life from the mid-18th century to the early 20th century. The Hungarian Skanzen was founded in 1967 - modelled after the Swedish Skanzen, the world's first open air museum - as the 'Village Museum Department' of the Budapest Ethnographic Museum. It became independent in 1972 and today it is one of the most successful museum of Hungary.
It is Hungary's largest outdoor collection with over 300 reconstructed and furnished houses in 60 hectares area, located in the Duna-Ipoly National Park. The displays are sorted by 8 different regions: Village in Northern Hungary, Upland Market Town, Upper Tisza Region, The Great Hungarian Plain (Alföld), Southern Transdanubia, Bakony-Balaton Uplands, Western Transdanubia and Kisalföld. The 9th region, Transylvania is under construction and expected to be ready in 2022.
These regions are arranged like little settlements based on ethnographical considerations, mirroring the integral parts of traditional villages - peasant households, dwellings, farm buildings, sacred and economic structures. You can walk around these little 'villages', look inside the houses, observe farming equipment, learn about old crafts and agricultural life, even meet Hungarian domesticated animals.
As the area of the Skanzen is huge and takes several hours to walk around, you can use some help to get around. The Skanzen Train goes around from the entrance and the journey takes about 30 minutes. It has easy access for wheel chairs and strollers as well. You can buy the ticket for 500 HUF at the entrance or on the train. Check out the operation times here. You can rent a bike or a roller for 600 HUF/day, or a cart for little children for 900 HUF.
The museum is absolutely family friendly, there are several interactive displays with playful explanations, you can make handcrafted toys and souvenirs as well! Also, the playgrounds were inspired by Hungarian folk tales, but kids can play in the Game Yard too or with puppets in the Puppet Theatre. Being an open air museum, you can bring your dog with you (for free), though be a responsible owner!
You can bring your own food to the Skanzen, but there are various options in the park too. First of all, the water is drinkable from all of the taps throughout the area so you don't have to worry about being thirsty. The restaurant is very close to the entrance and offers regional and seasonal Hungarian specialties, or there is the 'Resti' (Museum Café) that bring you back to the age of contemporary rural railway stations. The Museum Café is open according to the train's schedule and provides coffee, cakes, retro sweets, spritzer and beer. You can try the Cellar Restaurant from Mád as well- this wine bar and cellar restaurant is located in the Upland Market Town and offers some of Hungary's best handicraft wines. Then there's the bakery with lots of freshly baked goods or the old fashioned grocery shop from the 1930s where you can buy retro products. Do not forget the Museum Shop, where you can buy traditional Hungarian food products and beverages (like honey or pálinka) but several other kind of souvenirs as well. On top of that, you might find delicious snacks in different houses like elder juice, preserved fruits, jams or gingerbread (Mézeskalács) straight from the oven!
How to get here?
Szentendre is pretty close to Budapest and easily accessible by car or by public transport.
If you drive from Budapest, the route 11 will lead you to Szentendre in 30-60 minutes (depending on traffic) then look for the SKANZEN sign. Parking costs 900 HUF.
You can arrive by bus - several buses go to Szentendre, but this will take you to the Skanzen's entrance (approx. 1 hour 10 minutes). Tickets available at the bus stations.
You can also travel from Budapest via the suburban railway (HÉV) line H5 (approx. 40 min from Batthyány tér). Tickets available at the kiosks or the MÁV app (Android / iOS) for 310 HUF. The city centre is a few minutes walk from here, but the Skanzen is about an hour on foot, so I recommend to hop on a local bus from the HÉV station. Buy a ticket from the yellow ticket machine for 250 HUF.
Good to know
Admission: Adults: 2000 HUF, under the age of 26: 1000 HUF, 'Ticket for a walk' 1000 HUF. Check the prices here.
Opening times: the museum is closed on Mondays (except Easter Monday and Whit Monday), otherwise it's open from 9 am to 5 pm.
Wear comfortable shoes because you'll walk a lot! Also, there is not much shade in the park so don't forget to bring a hat and sunscreen. And your camera of course!
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