Graz is the capital city of the state of Styria and Austria's second largest city after Vienna. Surprisingly, Graz is still not counted among the most popular Austrian travel destinations - Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck and Hallstatt are far ahead - but this southern city is well worth a visit!
The city lies on the River Mur and has rich history dates back as AD 800. Its old city centre (the Altstadt) is one of the best-preserved historical areas in Central Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. Besides the grand institutions and fascinating Baroque and Renaissance architecture, Graz has a lot to offer - a vibrant nightlife, attractive parks and gardens, unusual galleries and museums, picturesque churches, world-class restaurants, unconventional design and a laid-back atmosphere.
Graz also has a long educational past as a 'university town' - many well-known person studied here such as Nicola Tesla, but the city was home to other famous figures too, like Arnold Schwarzenegger and Erwin Schrödinger. In 2003 Graz was named the ‘European Capital of Culture’, became a City of Culinary Delights in 2008 and the ‘City of Design’ in 2009.
Getting here and around
Graz lays on the eastern edge of the Alps and accessible by different means of transport. Once you're here, it is easy to get around on foot but I listed other options below too.
You can fly to the Graz Airport (GRZ) or as it is locally called the Flughafen Graz which is southern Austria's primary international airport.
If you want to travel within Austria, trains are the best option as they are not just affordable, fast and comfortable but also super panoramic. For schedules and prices check this site and buy your tickets on the official OBB website. Coaches are also available from the bigger Austrian and German cities.
You can also arrive by car because the Austrian road system has good quality, and goes through scenic mountains, though it can take longer to get to your destination. Graz is an hour drive from both the Slovenian and the Hungarian border. Don't forget to pay the road toll, buy your vignette here.
The public transport system is well-developed - several tram and bus lines are available. You can buy single trip tickets for 2.50 EUR or a 24-hour ticket for 5.50 EUR here, from the diver or from ticket machines.
If you want to cycle around the city, you'll find several bike rentals around the city, for example next to the Central Station.
What to do and what to see here
Graz Cathedral and the Mausoleum
Graz Cathedral (Domkirche) is a former castle church from the 15th century, built for Emperor Frederik III. This important landmark has a relatively simple Gothic exterior but the rich Gothic and Baroque interior with chandeliers, colored marble altar and frescoes reflects the imperial age of Austria. The Cathedral is open daily and free to enter. The Mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II is right next to it with frescoes and the red marble sarcophagus of the emperor's mother, Maria of Bavaria. The oval dome above the tomb was the first of its kind constructed outside of Italy. For a 6 EUR entrance fee, you can climb to the top of the tower and view the city from above.
Altstadt von Graz and the Rathaus
The picturesque old town is on the UNESCO heritage list with its medieval red-roofed buildings. Wander around the cobblestone streets, narrow alleys, the beautiful Baroque churches and Renaissance houses. The Hauptplatz (Main Square) is home to local events and markets like the Christmas market in winter. The elegant Renassaince Rathaus (City Hall) stands tall in the Hauptplatz since the middle of the 16th century and the official residence of the Mayor of Graz. To explore more from the Old Town, walk along Herrengasse or Sporgasse to marvel at the store windows, explore lovely cafes and interesting architecture. Don't miss the incredible paintings of Roman gods on Herzogshof (Painted House)!
Glockenspiel
The Glockenspiel is a clock with carillon on Glockenspielplatz. It was built in 1905 by Gottfried Maurer to lure more people into his tavern. It chimes three times a day (11 am, 3 pm and 6 pm) - as the clock strikes the hour, a dancing couple in traditional costume pirouette as the 24 bell ring. There are three different melodies: Alpine folk and yodeling songs, Christmas carols and contemporary melodies. An interesting feature is that the woman figure is holding a towel while the man is drinking beer - probably because that time it was illegal for women to drink alcohol in public.
Schlossberg and the Clock Tower
Graz most iconic duo is towering above the city and easily visible from a distance. The name Schlossberg literally means 'castle-mountain'. The 473-meter-tall tree-covered hill served as a fortress once but today it is transformed into a public park with amazing view to the terracotta roofs of the Old Town. It is free to walk around in the park and there are several attractions like 94-meter-deep Türkenbrunnen (Turkish Cistern), the Chinese Pavilion, the 35-meter-tall Glockenturm (Bell Tower) from the 16th century with its huge 8 ton bell or the open-air theatre originally used as the fortress's cellars. At the top of the hill there are cafes and restaurants offering a nice view to with a refreshing drink.
The Clock Tower (or the Urhturm as locally called) is the city's best known landmark. The clockwork of the 28-meter-tall tower is still working but has been replaced with electronic mechanism - though it can be quite confusing, as the hands are swapped. Interestingly, while there's the Bell Tower ringing its bell two times a day, the Clock Tower has even more! There are three bells ringing from the Urhturm - the fire bell was alarming the city in case of a fire, the 'Armesünderglocke' war ringing during executions, and the oldest bell of Graz strikes the hours since 1385.
There are several ways to get up and down the hill. You can take the 10-minute walk up to the 260 steps of the stairs starting from the Schlossbergplatz. If you don't feel like walking, ride the funicular for 2.50 EUR, which will take only 3 minutes. You can use the lift for 1.70 EUR or even a slide inside the mountain for 5 EUR. The slide is the tallest underground slide in the world with its 64 meters. Find your ticket combination here. In the mountain, there are also rails for the Fairytale Express - this 30 min ride to the land of fantasy and fairytales is specialized for children and starts from 6.50 EUR. This ride goes through the same tunnels that the citizens used as a bomb shelter during World War II.
The Eggenberg Palace
Schloss Eggenberg is a little further away from the other landmarks as this palace is located on the Western edge of the city, but can be reached in 15 minutes by tram (line 1) from the city centre. The palace was built in 1625 by the Eggenberg family, one of the wealthiest and most significant family of Graz. Today, this sumptuous Baroque residence is a symbol of the once influential region of Styria and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Prince Hans Ulrich von Eggenberg was fascinated by astronomy and astrology and the building reflects that - for example it has 4 corner towers, representing the 4 seasons of the year, 365 windows (representing the days of the year), 31 rooms on each floor (maximum days of a month), 24 state rooms (hours of the day) with a total of 52 windows (weeks of the year). The lavish palace has more than 600 frescos, then there's the Oriental room with Chinese porcelain, silk paintings and a previously unknown depiction of the Osaka Castle from Japan. The Planetary Hall is also splendid with its grandiose chandeliers and colorful paintings. The Eggenberg Palace is surrounded by in a huge and gorgeous park with a courtyard, a Planetary Garden, a Rosegarden, a Pavilion, an Orchard, a pond and peacocks! Guided tours are available for 15 EUR, and tell a lot more about the history of the place. Note that the state rooms are accessible only as part of a guided tour. The park is accessible with the entry ticket or for 2 EUR.
The Botanical Garden
The Botanical Garden of the Karl-Franzens-University is another attraction that is a bit further of the city centre. Tucked away in the poshest residential area, there's this ultra-modern botanical garden with its unique 'Armadillo-shaped' greenhouses and exotic flora from around the world. The displays are divided into four distinct climatic zones - tropical, Mediterranean, temperate and alpine - each accessible over wooden gangways and bridges. The best thing about it (next to the amazing plants of course) is that the whole thing is free!
Kunsthaus Graz
This futuristic alien or heart-shaped building seems to be out of place among the traditional buildings of Graz. The Kunsthaus is nicknamed 'Friendly Alien' and function as a modern art museum. Nearly 1000 fluorescent light create strange patterns on the museum at night, powered mostly by solar panels. The Kunsthaus has a little balcony to look out to the city and admire the structure from above. Tickets are available for 9.50 EUR here. Also, check out the different Love Locks on the bridge next to the museum!
The Stairs of Reconciliation
The Doppelwendeltreppe or double spiral staircase is located in the Burg, the official headquarter of the regional government. This engineering wonder consist of two opposing stone spiral stairs which meet on each floor then part again. It is often called a symbol of eternity and also known as the Stairs of Reconciliation for if you go separate ways, you will reunite.
Styrian Armory
Graz suffered many attacks from the east in the past due to its location in the southern Alps. This provincial armory was constructed in 1642 to arm and defend the citizens from the Ottoman Empire. The Styrian Armory (Landeszeughaus) with its 32,000 items is the world's biggest historical armory and the only originally preserved one in the world! The exhibits ranging from the 15th to early 19th century and completely fill four floor! The different collections include fire arms (4259 pistols!), canons, swords, pikes and spears, shields and armors. Outside the building two statues, Mars and Minerva guard this fascinating collection. Buy the entry ticket for 9,50 EUR here.
Landhaus
The Grazer Landhaus is the first Renaissance building in Graz and maybe the most stunning. It is unusual to stumble upon a Venetian-style building in Austria - the Landhaus was built in the mid-16th century designed by the Italian architect Domenico dell 'Allio. The exterior might not even catch your attention at first, though the arched windows and loggia are quite beautiful, but the main allure is the arched courtyard inside. Three floors of galleries with balustrade, linked by a raised walkway, a fountain with bronze cupola is truly amazing. You can also look inside the Baroque assembly hall and the Knight's Hall which ceiling is full of stuccos. Today the building is home to the provincial parliament of Styria but still can be accessed by the public (Monday-Friday from 10.00-18.00) - the courtyard is even home to several events.
The Murinsel
This little artificial structure floats in the middle of the River Mur. The Murinsel is accessible from both banks of the river and works as an amphiteatre, cafe a playground and a gift shop. The giant sea shell-shaped island lights up radiantly blue at night.
What and where to eat
Graz is full of cozy traditional restaurants, cafes and eateries, wine bars and delicious local food!
Coffee - Austria has its own coffee culture and long tradition of coffeehouses as they were important meeting places. Though Graz may not have grand old coffeehouses like Vienna, it does have newer and trendy cafes and bars that serve equally aromatic coffee. If you wanna try the Austrian coffee, choose the Kleiner/Großer Brauner (black coffee with a bit of milk) or Melange (coffee + frothed milk + steamed milk + cocoa powder). Some of the most popular Cafes are Tribeka, Grand Café Kaisefeld (with a Schwazenegger-themed corner) and the Ducks Coffee Shop.
Wine - Graz's surrounding area is one of the leading wine-producing area in Austria. Not even an hour drive from Graz, you'll find the South Styrian Wine Road, a very scenic route though hills and vineyards, villages and wine taverns - perfect for a day trip! Check out this post about the route.
As for local dishes, there are several great Austrian dishes you can eat - Wiener Schnitzel, Vienna Sausage, Schweinsbraten, Zwiebelrostbraten, Knödel, Apfelstudel, Sachertorete, Potato Gulash, Belegte Brotel, Kaiserschmarrn, Tiroler Gröstl of Tafelspitz.
Kaiser-Josef-Platz Market
As Graz is quite famous for its food, the local Farmer's Market is a must see. All of the groceries are locally and organically grown and you can find here everything you need. The market is on from Monday to Saturday, between 6 am and 1 pm. It is well worth to get up early and try the freshly baked bread, a piece of fruit and sausages with cheese. Also, this is the place where you want to get the 'Styrian Gold' or 'Black Gold'- the regions famous and healthy pumpkin seed oil.
Hofbäckerei Edegger-Tax
This bakery can be dated back to 1569 and was the official bakery of the House of Habsburgs! This traditional bakery on Hofgasse offers a great collections of pastries, breads, mouthwatering cakes and cookies.
Where to stay
We did not stay in Graz, but we should have, considering the great misfortune we got into after leaving the city... We planned to continue our trip to Salzburg by car but out car broke down midway and we did not make it to our booked hotel. Fortunately, we were safe but our car gave up completely and we had to sleep in a really small town in the middle of nowhere. As it was the afternoon before Whitsunday, everything was closed for the whole weekend... Eventually we decided to leave the car and get home by train. It was our most adventurous trip so far!
So, back to the topic, there are plenty of options to stay in Graz, here are some I would have choose. The Old Town is the best area for sightseeing.
a&o Graz Hauptbahnhof is a nice and modern hostel next to the Graz Central Station and has several dining options nearby.
B&B Hotel Graz Hauptbahnhof is close to the Graz Central Sation and the Old Town as well, also offers great buffet breakfast and affordable prices.
NH Graz City is close to the Old Town and offers comfortable beds and friendly staff.
Find the places we've mentioned in this post here:
When to go
Well, don't go on a public holiday! Unless you are prepared for the closed shops and car services - we weren't. Otherwise, Graz is pretty beautiful all year round - summer is the peak season as the weather is the warmest, the opening hours are the longest and plenty of outdoor activity is available. The blossoming in spring and the colourful leaves of the surrounding forests in autumn are also stunning, the weather is milder as well as several festivals and events are in these seasons. In winter, the snowy landscape is beautiful and the Christmas market is a popular event.
So, there is our travel guide to Graz. We hope it will help you navigate yourself through the city!
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